Healthy Relaxed Hair Care Basics

Basic Steps on How to Have Healthy Relaxed Hair

Your either already relaxed, or maybe you've been natural for awhile and considering relaxing again.  It doesn't matter what area of your journey you are on, you can have healthy relaxed hair.  This is a straight forward easy to follow guide with easy to understand language, no complicated terms.

Relaxing Virgin Hair or Touch-ups

I recommend that you find a trusted and qualified stylist who knows how to properly perform a relaxer service, whether your hair is virgin or your receiving a touch-up.  If your not able to go to a professional then follow these steps.

Choosing a Relaxer

Phytospecific Phytorelaxer
First things first, choosing a relaxer.  I decided after tons of research to try the Phytospecific Phytorelaxer Index 2 for Normal, Thick, Resistant Hair.  I purchased it from Amazon.

Yeah really expensive, but after all my research I was convinced this was the relaxer for me.  I got great results from using this relaxer, minimum breakage and it didn't burn.  I only used it two times, the first time to relax my natural virgin hair, and after 3 months I touched up my new growth with what I had left over.  It took 1 jar and a half to relax my virgin hair, because I had so much hair. 

Organic Root Stimulator No-Lye Relaxer
After using the phytospecific phytorelaxer twice, I decided to switch to Organic Root Stimulator No-Lye Extra Strength.  I always have to use a no-lye relaxer, because my scalp is sensitive and it burns, even if it is based with a protective cream.  I only used this once also, and then decided that I didn't want to be relaxed anymore it was to much work.

Organic Root Salon Olive Oil Professional Creme Relaxer
This relaxer is very strong on the scalp, if you have sensitive scalp this may irritate it.  You shouldn't shampoo, scratch, just be taking out braids or a weave before applying this relaxer.  I find that the normal strength works fine on all hair types for this relaxer, so no need for the extra strength.  What I like about this relaxer is, when your new growth starts coming in, as long as you are following up with your treatments.  Using a proper heat protectant and flat ironing your hair, your new growth won't be as difficult to manage or it will grow in more soft and easy to manage.  I found this out after using it on clients hair.  After using this and reading about the professional salon creme relaxers, it seems as if they are better than the lye relaxers.  

Prepare Your Hair 1 Week Before You Relax Your Hair

Virgin Hair Preparation 1 Week Prior To Relaxing
If your relaxing virgin hair, then I recommend that you treat your hair 1 week before you relax.  I use to make my own mayo treatment, but I now use the Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Replenishing Conditioner.  After you treat your hair, instead of leaving it natural or twisting it, straighten your hair.  By straightening your hair it will make it easier for you to apply the relaxer.

Touch-up Preparation 1 Week Prior to Relaxing
Before your touch up, I recommend that you treat your hair 1 week before you relax, to prepare and strengthen your hair for the relaxer.  Most relaxer kits have a deep penetrating conditioner or conditioner included that you use after you neutralize your hair to help restore moisture, because the relaxer is harsh and drying to the hair.  So your hair would have been treated 1 week prior and directly after the relaxer process, giving you double protection.  

All relaxers come with there own set of instructions, but they are basically all the seem.

Steps on How to Relax your Virgin Hair & Touch Ups
What is Virgin Hair?:  Natural hair that hasn't been relaxed or processed in anyway.  In order to get all of your hair straight you will have to apply the relaxer to all of your hair, starting from the roots then applying to the tips last, as the hair is fragile and splits easily at the ends.  Please do not apply the relaxer directly to the scalp if you can avoid it.

What is a Touch-up:  After you have relaxed your virgin hair, you are not suppose to relax the previously relaxed hair.  Unless you are doing a corrective relaxer, which means you have to apply relaxer to a area that didn't process well or come out as straight as you like.  Once you relax your hair it will stay straight like that forever, but the new virgin growth coming in from the scalp will always have to be relaxed.  The area where the hair was previously relaxed and the new growth is an area for concern, because a lot of breakage can occur at this point.

What You Will Need To Relax Your Hair
The no-lye kit will contain a few of these items, but if you are using a professional salon relaxer that just comes in the jar it won't include these items.

1) Relaxer of your choice with instructions
2) Towels (2 Salon towels, 2 small wash cloths)
3) Salon shampoo cape

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4) Timer

5) Salon mixing bowl 

6) Gloves (included in relaxer kit)
7) Comb with handle that can smooth hair

8) Wooden spatula (included in relaxer kit)
9) Hair clips

10) Neutralizing Shampoo (included in relaxer kit)
12) Conditioner (included in relaxer kit)
13) Base Scalp Protector (sometimes included in relaxer kit)

Start Your Application Process

Now that you have all your materials to perform your relaxer, you can begin your application process.

Put on your gloves. Your no-lye relaxer will come in two parts the liquid activator and the creme base.  Follow the directions and take out half of the container or the amount you feel you need and place into the salon mixing bowl.  Then mix equal amounts of the liquid activator.  Mix together well. 

Drape yourself with a towel and the shower cape to prevent the relaxer from spilling onto your clothes.

Part your hair into 4 equal sections with the hair clips.

Base your scalp with the Base Scalp Protector if your scalp burns easily.  Do not over do it with the base and put to much, just base the scalp don't put it directly on the hair if you can avoid it.

Put your timer on the amount of time the relaxer kit states you should relax your hair for.

Now remove the clip from the first section in the back, and start applying the relaxer to sections as quickly as you can without applying directly onto your scalp to all your hair if this is a virgin application.  Or only to your new growth if this is a touch-up with the handle of the comb. Do not apply the relaxer to your edges in your back yet do that for last, if you burn easily.  Keep applying the relaxer to all sections until you are completely finish.

Now that you have applied the relaxer to all the sections that you sectioned of with the clips, you can now use your application comb to smooth the relaxer in.  This process is important to make sure that your hair is stretched and relaxed properly.  Do not comb the relaxer through, just smooth it in with the handle of the comb.  Now you can apply the relaxer to the edges of your hair line and smooth the relaxer in.

Let the relaxer stay on your hair for the amount of time left on your timer. Remember that while you where putting the relaxer on your hair it would have already started processing.  This is why it is important to apply the relaxer very quickly so that you can have time to smooth into your hair and time to process.  Try not to leave the relaxer on for extended amounts of time beyond the suggested time on the instructions.  Sometimes you may need a extra 5 to 10 minutes, because your hair is thick or difficult to process.  Just don't over do it, the timer guidelines are to prevent damage to your hair, such as split ends, and broken hair.

Once the timer goes of it's time to rinse all the relaxer out of your hair.  

Next gently shampoo your hair with the neutralizing shampoo 2-3 times.  Some neutralizing shampoo come with a color signal.  That goes from pink foam to white foam, so you know when all the relaxer is out.  The neutralizing shampoo is very important, it stops the relaxing process.  The relaxer is a very strong chemical, it's job is to break down the kink in your hair.  The process doesn't stop until you rinse it out and use the neutralizing shampoo.

Once you've neutralized your hair properly, you can now apply the  conditioner that came with your relaxer to restore the moisture to your hair that was lost during the harsh chemical process and from the drying neutralizing shampoo.

Now you can proceed to styling your hair, I recommend that you use a leave in conditioner and roller set your hair.  If you have time you can let the rollers stay in your hair for several hours until it's fully dry.  Or let it dry for a while with the rollers and then sit under the dryer.  If your hair is in good condition, then you can blow dry and flat iron your hair which is much quicker.  

Now that you have an idea on how to properly apply a relaxer you need to know how to maintain your hair to keep it healthy.

Keeping Your Hair Moisturized

Your hair is relaxed now what, it needs to be taken care of properly.  Some people naturally have hair that is strong and durable and doesn't need as much care, but even those people have to go through some sort of preparations to get their hair looking right.

Tips For Maintaing Healthy Relaxed Hair.

Tip 1:  Treat your hair every week or every 2 weeks with the treatment of your choice.  By trying out different products, researching products and getting your hairstylist advice you will find the right treatment for your hair. I recommend the ORS Replenishing Treatment, I know from experience that this treatment works.

Tip 2:  Bun your hair when you aren't going anywhere so it doesn't rub on your clothes and break.

Tip 3:  Protect your hair at night, wrap your hair if it is past shoulder length, or wrap and pin it up if it is shorter and not able to go into a bun.  Then tie your hair down with a satin wrap or head clothe.

Tip 4: Moisturize, Moisturize.  If your hair is durable and doesn't break easily then it may only need a few drops of oil a day.  However, if your hair breaks and splits easily, you may not be able to wear your hair out everyday in long flowing hair styles.  So that would mean that you would have to moisturize it at night with a liquid moisturizer which will revert your hair and you won't be able to wear it bone straight.  You will have to find a moisturizer that agrees with your hair type that will moisturize it properly and keep it from breaking and splitting.  I recommend the Kinky Curly Knot Today Leave In, Giovanni Direct Leave In and Wave Nouvea Moisturizing Finishing Lotion.  After you've moisturized your hair with the moisturizer of your choice, apply oil to seal in the moisture.  You can make your own oil mixture, or try products like Castor Oil if your trying to thicken up your hair or edges.  Coconut oil is also a great moisturizing and sealing oil.  There are many natural oils and oil products to choose from then ever before.

Tip 5:  Limit combing and brushing your hair to much and use the right styling tools.  Use wide teeth combs and soft bristle brushes just for the edges and for smoothing the hair into a neat ponytail.

Tip 6:  Avoid heat and limit it to once a week or every 2 weeks.  Make sure when you do use heat that you treat your hair that week and you use a heat protectant.  My favorite heat protectant is Fantasia Ic Hair Polisher Heat Protector Straightening Serum.

Tip 7:  Stretch Relaxers:  Try stretching your relaxer to at least 1 month and 2 weeks, you can go longer depending on your dedication to your hair.  The more you moisturize and treat your hair, your new growth will be more manageable.  With the advancements in technology the right blow dryer and flat iron can also make stretching your relaxer easier.  The biggest problems I found with stretching is finding the right shampoo that didn't tangle up my new growth and long hair.  Also where the old and new hair meet there is major chance of the hair breaking, when stretching the relaxer out for long periods of time.

Tip 8:  Your health, diet, and exercise can affect your hair as well. If you are under a lot of stress and have a poor diet then your hair may not grow as quickly or break easily.  Exercise is important to relieve stress and release toxins out of our body.  Drinking lots of water is very important, because it is the natural moisturizer that moisturizes our body, organs, skin, hair and nails.  So you may be doing everything right, but if you have a illness, taking certain prescribed medication or not eating healthy.  Then your hair can suffer.

Above I provided some hair care tips to having healthy relaxed hair.  Below is a simple at home relaxed hair regimen that you can follow every week with product suggestion.

Rexlaxed/Texlaxed Regimen

*Step 1 Shampoo every 7 days on Saturday (Hair One Cleansing Conditioner Olive Oil for dry Hair)
*or Clarify every 4 to 6 weeks on Saturday (ORS Olive Oil Creamy Aloe Shampoo)
*Step 2 Protein Treatment (Light) on wash day leave on for 30 mins under hair dryer (ORS Olive Oil Replenishing Conditioner), then rinse.  If your hair is in good condition than you will only need to use a light protein treatment, if is severely damaged then you will need a more intense hair treatment and several hair trims.
*Step 3 Moisturizing Deep-Conditioner on wash day (Giovanni Smooth As Silk Deeper Moisture Conditioner) NOTE: If you do a protein treatment this must always follow it restores your hairs moisture levels.  The protein treatment strengthens and the conditioner moisturizes.
* Step 4 Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse on wash day after moisturizing deep conditioner to seal cuticles, clarify the hair and scalp mix equals parts of distilled water with apple cider vinegar in a applicator bottle and apply from the applicator bottle or use in a spray bottle (Braggs Apple Cider Vinegar when available)
*Step 5 Moisturizing Leave In and Detangling section hair into  mall to medium size sections with wide detangling comb on semi dry hair, hair is at it's most fragile point when it is wet, so detangle semi-dry if you need some of the water moisture to help you detangle, you can use (Kinky Curly Knot Today)
*Step 6 Seal after applying Moisturizing Leave in and Detangling hair apply oil to each section of hair and scalp (Coconut Oil)
*Step 7 Style apply magnetic rollers, remist ends if needed and comb through if needed, tie hair in net, air dry.  If you have a lot of hair then your hair won't dry without air or heat from a hooded dryer.  You can sit or sleep near a fan overnight if needed.  Or go under a hooded dryer which is the preferred and quickest method.  Or blow dry and flat iron your hair, or just put it in a protective style like a braid-out.
*Step 8 Trim/Cut After your hair has dried you can trim your ends by pulling your hair down in the front of you for the hair furthest in the back and lifting your hair up in the air for the hair in the middle and in different angles for different areas of your head.  It takes practice to trim your own hair at home, go to a professional to trim or cut your hair.  If your hair is damaged or uneven then the professional would be able to correct it.
*Step 8 Everyday apply moisturizer and oil every day morning or night or when needed, pin curl or wrap it in a bun and protect it when your not wearing it out.  Or just apply a few drops of oil to your hair daily if you will be wearing it straight.


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